along the Polish Coast

Although I have lived on the Baltic Sea for 4 years , it has always fascinated me. I am not drawn to the mountains at all. Inspired by other people's expeditions along the Polish Baltic coast, and after reading stories about such expeditions in Rowertour magazine, I decided to set off on such an expedition myself and face the forces of the Baltic. I designed the route so that it led as close as possible to the coast and ran away from busy highways. To develop it I used the coastal sections of the international bicycle route R-10 around the Baltic Sea. Its length in Poland is 356 km. and leads from Swinoujscie to Stilo near Leba. Ultimately, it is to run through Wladyslawowo , Gdynia , Gdansk , Elblag , Braniewo to the border crossing of...znego in Gronów. I chose the aforementioned Swinoujscie as the start of the expedition. I arrived here by train from Gdansk with changes in Gdynia and Szczecin after 9 hours of travel.In Swinoujscie I spent 3 days. The first was arrival , the second sightseeing and the third trip to Germany to the Island of Usedom which is a cycling eldorado. About this trip in a separate report. There is a lot to see in Swinoujscie. It is becoming more and more beautiful. The center has been renovated and a promenade has been built, along with a bicycle path. There are a lot of bicycle paths here, making it easier to explore the city on a saddle. They are slowly beginning to connect and can be reached practically everywhere , even to the German border. It is rare to ride on the street here. The main point not to be missed is the lighthouse. The first on the Polish coast , the largest in Poland and one of the largest in the world. Its height is 68 meters. To reach it you need to take a ferry. Still apropos of bicycles , in Swinoujscie as in Germany it is difficult to meet the popular highlanders. Urban cruisers of the swan or Dutchman type dominate here. On the fourth day I started the actual part of the trip. I headed in the direction of Kolobrzeg. In order to avoid the busy road No. 3 to Miedzyzdroje I took the R-10 bicycle trail. It leads along a dirt road through the forest, sometimes a bit bumpy, but with the sound of the sea in the background. Miedzyzdroje is famous for the festival of stars that used to take place here (since this year again). Until 2009 it was held in Gdansk. This event is commemorated by an avenue with casts of hands of popular and famous people. The pier here is also worth a look. However, a strong wind chased me off it quickly. From Miedzyzdroje I headed along road No. 102 in the direction of Dziwnow. It was renovated, the traffic on it was moderate, but I had to deal with a heavy 5-kilometer driveway at the exit from the town. There were also pedestrian and bicycle paths. On the way to Dziwnow I pass, among others, Wisełka , Kolczewo and Miedzywodzie. In Dziwnow I take a rest at the local beach. From Dziwnow to Łukęcin I continue along road no. 102 on the way meeting a lone pannier from Zielona Góra , who was doing the same route as me in the opposite direction. A short chat and then continue on the road to Łukęcin, where I again enter the R-10 bike trail, which takes me through the forest to Pobierowo. I try to buy a map here, because the one I've been using so far has just ended here. Its search ends in a fiasco and I cover the rest of the route to Kolobrzeg with a map from a tourist guide, unfortunately much less accurate. From Pobierowo pedals further along the R-10 trail to Trzęsacz. Here you must stop to see the ruins of a Gothic church regularly washed up by the Sea. When the temple was built ( the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries) it was as far as two kilometers from the shore. From Trzęsacz through Rewal I proceed to the lighthouse in Niechorze. The lighthouse here is particularly popular with tourists. We climb 208 stairs to the observation deck. I manage to visit it by a toss of the tape less than 5 minutes before closing. After visiting it, I eat lunch. In Niechorz the old adage , "he who shortens the road to the house does not return" proved true. On the advice of locals who told me that it is possible to go to Mrzezyno through the military training ground, as it is closed. This turned out to be untrue, as there was a barrier and a sign protected area. An attempt to go around the beach also came to nothing, because the descents were too steep to push through with a bicycle and panniers, and in addition it ended in rubbing my leg on the pedal. Furious with the considerable loss of time, I ride to Trzebiatow, full of monuments, through which I just pass at a walking pace, peering only at the sights from the saddle, and then continue in the direction of Mrzezyno, where I make a short stop. A bit past Trzebiatow on the left side of the road is a bike path. From Mrzezyno through the military areas of Rogowo village and the summer resort of Dzwirzyno I reach Kolobrzeg where I stop for the night. That day I rode 140 km. In Kolobrzeg it is worth stopping for longer, because in this city there is something to see. In addition to the beach , you must see the lighthouse built on an old fort. This factor caused it to have a massive round shape. Also worth a visit is the local harbor from where ships depart for Bornholm all year round. It is also worth a stroll through the renovated old town. From Kolobrzeg I took the direction of Ustka. I leave the city on a bicycle path between the sea and wetlands. I did not expect to have adventures on the first part of this stage. On the bike path I hit a broken bridge and for 20 minutes I push my bike on the beach like German pannier riders . Then at the airfield between Podczely and Ustron Morski I lose my way and again land on the path to Podczely. This time, however, I find the right way and ride through Sianożęty to Ustron Morski and then along the R-10 bike path to the lighthouse in Gaski. The lighthouse here is one of the most visited of its kind. It has more than 200 stairs. For the beautiful views from it, it is worth climbing there. After visiting it a portion of French fries and then continue on the road in the direction of Sarbinowo, to which the R-10 trail leads along a gravel road and then plunges into the forest. Halfway between Sarbinowo and Mielno I come across an obelisk informing about the course of the 16th geographic meridian. Here I also meet the same Germans who, between Kolobrzeg and Podczela, were pushing their bikes on the beach. Just before Mielno the trail becomes quite difficult , but only its last section, which ends in the center of the village. From Mielno pedals along the picturesque road between the Baltic Sea and Lake Jamno. In Łazy, next to the beach, I make a longer stop and then follow the R-10 trail to Bielkowo, and from there along road 203 through Dąbki I reach Darłowo. I do not like this city at all. Neglected market, mean and rude residents and no bar with tables outside. I manage to eat only thanks to the lady who let me bring my bike inside. With no regrets I leave Darlowo and pedal along the bike path to the lighthouse in Darlowko. On site it turns out that the lighthouse is no longer in operation. However, thanks to a lady who came here from Darlowo especially for me, I manage to visit it. It may not impress with its height, as it was made of a brick building of pilots from 1885 on which a low tower finished with a glass laterna was added. After visiting the building, one inquires about a shortcut to Jaroslawiec via Kopan. Tourists traveling here advise me against this route due to the deep sand. It's very late to risk it, so I take a detour through Barzowice, while upping the pace, but in Drozdowo the steep uphill took me quite a while again. I could only look at the lighthouse in Jaroslawiec and rest by it. I do the last shopping here and receive a phone call from the lady at the lodging in Ustka, who started to worry about me, no wonder it was getting late and I still had a long way to go to Ustka. I immediately take a detour, because without a pass I can forget about entering the training ground. Through Łącko I get to the village of Zaleskie, and from there straight on the asphalt to Ustka, where I arrive at the lodge after 23 p.m. It turns out that this was the longest stage of the whole trip 154 km. In Ustka noteworthy is, of course, the lighthouse, which, along with a neo-Gothic church, miraculously survived the turmoil of war. It is also worth a stroll on the promenade, unfortunately not available for bicycles.

along the Polish Coast

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